One Year

It's been one year since I moved to Seattle from Bloomington. In that time I've started a new job; entered one new home and then another; been to England to visit my son; danced a confusing dance with my health; climbed some, but missed climbing more than I wanted; lost my favorite kitty but gained a new buddy; travelled to Palo Alto, Toronto, Florida, Portland, Vancouver, Victoria, Lake Cumberland, and back to the old haunts in the midwest; taken many pictures of Mt. Rainier and far less of people; eaten a lot of good sushi, and a lot less wheat, dairy and sugar; lost and gained; shrunk and grown.    (PUU)

The geography near here suits me better. There are ups and down and horizons. Tall mountains, deep lakes and many pine trees. In some ways these things are obscured by the--to me--bustling metropolis of Seattle, but all that bustling brings its benefits. I have pleasantly adapted to the concept of neighborhood where most of my food, entertainment, parks and comfort are within reach of my feet. The car can take me to mountains and ocean, snow and salt and have me home for dinner.    (PUV)

The year has been one of change: some of my assumptions have been destroyed, leaving behind a bit of a void. On a bad day that's a void of doubt and confusion, on a good day an opportunity to be filled. Questions exist but there's been one constant: I came to Seattle for love, and that love remains.    (PUW)

Posted by cdent at 03:58 AM | Trackback This | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0) | | bl | Categories: journal

Anasazi v Moccasyms

I've had occasion over the last several months to run a completely unscientific comparison of my climbing performance in my old favorites, Anasazi Velcro sized down to a pleasant pain, and a pair of Moccasyms that fit in all day comfort sort of way. (Five.Ten in their infinite wisdom make it impossible to link directly to shoes.) Nothing surprising but here are my thoughts:    (PUQ)

On real rock, climbing routes, for a day out of moderate climbing in the Red River Gorge, Vantage and Exit 38 in Washington, and (unfortunately just two routes) in the valley at Yosemite the Moccasyms do a fine job. The smear so very nice.    (PUR)

In the gym, bouldering on plastic, the Moccasyms start to show their weaknesses. That they fit comfortably means the heel cup is insufficiently secure on my sweaty feet to handle heel hooks and otherwise have the kind of precision required. The Anasazis, as you might expect, feel more precise. I've fallen off a problem a few times in the Moccasyms, switched to the Anasazis and walked up.    (PUS)

Part of this is psychological. I have an affinity for the somewhat painful aspects of the Anasazi that boosts my confidence in some sick and twisted way. It's like tiger balm on the forehead to help with studying: I'm more aware of my feet.    (PUT)

• Update*: In response to the comment, "how are the anasazis in cracks?" No good for me, because I wear them so tightly. My toe knuckles are very high compares to the meat of my foot, so when I jam it hurts. Moccasyms good in crack.    (Q6Y)

Posted by cdent at 06:54 PM | Trackback This | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0) | | bl | Categories: climbing